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I really can’t say enough what a great city Riga is. It’s been touted as an upcoming tourist hot spot in Europe — and it’s easy to see why.
A view of the market and central train station from the top of the Soviet-era skyscraper
The largest city in the Baltic states, Riga still has a very small city feel. It’s walkable, but also very accessible by tram, train, bus, and mini-bus. The city is so hip that in many ways it feels less like Eastern Europe and more like a Western/Central European city, like a Berlin or Prague. However, it is much cleaner than both and smells much less like piss. Also, sorry Berlin, but the beers are better. But, before you can have a beer — you must get to the city.
The city is chocked full of architecture, and one only needs look up to see the different eras
Arriving — made simple
One of the best parts of my experience in Riga was the ease of arriving from the airport. Just grab a bus waiting literally outside the terminal, and head off on your way to the center of the city. On the way you’ll head past the incredible mix of architecture that made Riga worthy of a UNESCO designation. Apart from the old town with its surprisingly intact ancient buildings, there are a number of churches, sprawling parks, towering sleek and modern (but relatively small) sky scrapers, the soaring monuments to a proudly independent Latvia, and of course the dominating stalwarts of Soviet occupation.
The House of the Blackheads in the heart of the UNESCO heritage old town
Micro-brews and weird country beers
In Riga, there are a number of unique experiences for the hop-lover in you. I would highly recommend stopping in Alus Haus. The selection of Latvian beers is extensive, and the bartenders are friendly enough to make suggestions, and offer tips about travel in and around Riga.
“You must go to Jurmala.” Insisted the bartender, it’s beautiful.
“What is it?” I asked.
“It’s like a pine forest, but on the beach. Forest, beach, cabins…. Beautiful.”
Another recommendation he gave me was to head to the brewery at Labietis. That one I immediately decided to pursue. The brewery itself was hard to find, but so very worth the search — anyway, it’s the journey that makes the destination worth the beer awaiting you.
Good beer with a cool Babylonian-looking dude’s head as the logo — no explanation here
The brewery was situated in a confusing old factory, which had been converted into a vegan/asian food mall. It took me a minute to find the entrance, down what seemed like an old abandoned street filled with dilapidated industrial buildings. But, when I stepped in and asked, “Is this the brewery?” a stocky man in an apron smiled widely and said, “You found it.”
The place smelled like cereal, the hops and grains being cooked as I sampled the beer. Behind the glass I could see bespectacled and uniformed hipsters stirring their hops with care.
I tried a few of the beers offered that day (they switch them out regularly); the Latvian take on an APA, their forest beer, and their more standard lager. The beers were great, each one I had was distinct, really professionally finished, and crafted with care.
The brewery was a bit tough to locate in an old factory, behind some broken down machinery — this added to the atmosphere
Jurmala
The beach town of Jurmala is actually a collection of little towns that have, over time, been joined together by the sprawl of newly-constructed beach houses. The place has that distinct feel of a beach town, with ice cream stands overflowing onto the street, and overpriced but badly-made coffee being sold on every corner. Accessing the beach is surprisingly easy. Just get off the train at one of five or so stops along the coast and head right down to the water. The beach itself stretches from the national park Kemeru at one end, to the regional park Ragakapa at the other end (which is basically an unincorporated bit of trees). I walked from the Jurmala stop to Bulduri along the beach, before deciding to get a minibus the rest of the way to Ragakapa. If I would have had more time, I think it would have been nice to walk the whole way along the beach. It was lovely.
Ragakapa was definitely worth a walk through, and I regret not getting down to Kemerū which is supposed to be awesome. There’s just going to have to be a next time.
Places to eat
There were a couple places I really recommend visiting, for either the atmosphere or the offering. Of course, Riga impressed me greatly with the breadth of food and drink offered.
The freedom monument, part of the time there were a contingent of dudes with assault rifles guarding it (there’s a bit of tension with a dictator nearby whose name starts with a P and ends with shithead)
To be fair, I found one great place from another blog that was a list of Soviet places to visit. Honestly, there were no Soviet vibes in the place, so that was confusing – maybe they’ve remodeled. On the other hand, the food was seriously worth the trip, and it was so centrally-located that it made it easy to get to Bufete Gauja. I had the traditional Latvian potato pancakes with salad and radishes. They were basically unforgettable. Their house beer was slightly more forgettable. In hindsight, I wish I would have had the daily offering, which everyone was eating — but I was too stupid to say, “I’ll have what he’s having”. That’s the biggest lesson I’ve learned in Eastern Europe. Have the daily offering, it’s usually like €3 and a mountain of food — and if the locals are eating it, you’re probably much better off.
By my final day in Riga, I learned this lesson again, I as I searched high and low (seriously like four hours) around old town until I found a place where none of the menus or signs were in English. Then, I walked in and pointed to the sign that said something in Latvian about the daily offering. It turned out to be a good choice, I got an excellent, hearty soup and a thick piece of chicken breaded in a weird but wonderful spice mix, and a beetroot salad for €3.50.
Another excellent place that I was lucky enough to be close to was a charming little vegan cafe called Sweet Therapy. They asked me “What kind of milk do you want?” with my latté (my go-to coffee in Europe since otherwise you get a tiny tiny sip of espresso when you ask for a coffee). “Um… cow… I said…”
The girl shook her head, “We’re vegan.”
“Good for you.” I said, “How about… soy?”
“What are you doing in Riga?” She asked, “Work?” I laughed.
“Guess I’m just looking.” I said, “It’s lovely. A beautiful city.”
She shrugged, “It’s fine.”
This was a common question, “What the hell are you doing here?” Emphasis on here. As in, why would you come to Riga? Well, now I know.
The one other food item that was honestly a “must” was sprotes. Especially Riga Gold sprotes. I ate three or four cans of these heavenly little smoked fish. They are like sardines meets smoked salmon. I already miss them.
Oh sprotes! How I have missed your smoky, fishy goodness…
Sightseeing
There are actually a lot of sights to take in in Riga. Of course, there is the Academy of Arts and Sciences, the Soviet-era tower that is the most imposing piece of architecture in the city. It’s about €5 to go up, but really, the view (and the experience of taking the old clunky elevator up) was worth it. From there you can see the gigantic, other-wordly Soviet radio tower. It’s the tallest building in the Baltic states (according to the outdated plaque on top of the building), but it is amazing. It’s like the Seattle Space Needle, but functional and way more intriguing.
So cool… The radio tower is the single coolest structure I’ve ever seen. It adds a layer of intrigue that it is built to outlast earthquakes, nuclear blasts, and tsunamis, etc.
Of course, you’ll want to spend some time wandering around the old town. There are numerous old buildings like the House of the Blackheads and the imposing churches. Note the roosters atop the churches, in place of crosses, the Lutherans in the Baltic states, and purportedly elsewhere, stick chickens on top of their churches. IDFK why, but it’s weird — and amusing. There are also a collection of parks throughout the city that are nicely-maintained and worth a stroll.
Orthodox, Lutheran, Catholic, take your pick! #Churchesfordays
Off the beaten path
One of the weirder experiences was when I started walking in the direction of an old tower I saw from the top of the Arts and Sciences building. I was intrigued by this ancient-looking tower, a pair of them actually, that were stuck right in the middle of a grove of trees. So, I had to go and check them out. My journey took me through a somewhat sketchy bit of town where there were more abandoned buildings than occupied ones, but it was quiet and eventually I found the tower. It was a bit anti-climactic, but it was an interesting adventure. Again, it’s the journey that makes the destination worth while.
I asked the bartender at the Bier Haus what the towers were.
“Those towers… yes, we have them. I have no idea what they are. They’re just here.”
One of a series of inexplicable towers scattered throughout Riga… Apparently they form a void in the collective memory of the city
There’s a lot about Riga that was inexplicable, but I have to say that added to its charm. The country has been occupied for much of its modern history, but has managed to eek out a cultural identity of its own which is really cementing itself now. I think Riga deserves recognition as one of the most interesting cities in Europe, and I’m sure before long it will get that recognition. Hopefully, that won’t destroy the character that I found so charming, amusing, and generally fascinating.
-Brian
Last spring, we found a dimly lit cocktail bar/speakeasy in the Lower East Side called Nite Owl, where we watched ‘artistes’ mixing what were surely potion ingredients out of small, mysteriously-colored bottles and glass vials to serve us frothy, gold-dusted beverages with mermaid stirring sticks and containing imported Bolivian liquor. What made this dark basement speakeasy even more fun was that when we tried to visit it again, it was moved and we had to rediscover it all over. Sneaky!
Plus, their oysters are deliciously fresh, so you don’t end up feeling suspicious about the low price or the possible danger to your gut (for all you hypochondriacs out there). My favorite part of The Mermaid Inn is that the meal is always concluded with a small, complimentary pot of chocolate mousse (thanking you) and one of those red cellophane fish “fortune tellers” you place on your palm. Depending on the way it curls, it predicts you what mood you are in and apparently “passion” is a common mood.
idaknowwheretogo (I don't know where to go!) 